Rebuilding bsa front forks

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Rebuilding bsa front forks

Forking by Frank is the premier manufacturer for motorcycle fork tubes in the United States. Our company prides ourselves on having materials to custom make most types of fork tubes, including stock, over and under lengths. No one in the industry makes the variety or a higher-quality fork tube. We make a wide range of fork tubes for most motorcycles, ATV and dirt bikes.

We also offer worldwide shipping, making your motorcycle maintenance even more efficient for motorcycle owners across the United States and worldwide. We have the ability to produce custom fork tubes up to 41mm. If you have any questions, please provide details of your upper fork tube up to 41 mm needs on our contact form or by phone at You may also stop in and visit us weekdays, am-5pm at our Evanston location.

Harley Fork Tube sizes. Suzuki Fork Tube sizes. Kawasaki Fork Tube sizes. Yamaha Fork Tube sizes. Skip to content Forking by Frank is the premier manufacturer for motorcycle fork tubes in the United States. Franks forks to please. We build custom fork tubes for virtually any bike.What starts life as a set of taught and responsive forks slowly degrades into a mushy and unpredictable pair of pogo sticks. For those that find themselves at the track a few times a year, suspension maintenance becomes just as important as changing the engine oil.

If bumps are being absorbed and nothing is leaking, then everything must be fine! Well, think again. More than likely, you are overdue for a suspension overhaul. Note: The procedure shown below highlights how Showa upside-down damper rod forks are disassembled and reassembled.

BSA Fork Parts

Be sure to research the peculiarities of your specific forks when attempting an overhaul. Before starting, you will want to make sure you have all the special tools and replacement parts at the ready. This includes new fork seals, dust seals, and fork seal grease. You will also need to determine the correct volume and weight of fork oil that you will be replacing.

The critical tools you will need are a fork seal driver, a spring compressor, a vise, and an oil level gauge. All of the other tools used throughout the process are not specialized and can be easily sourced locally. The first order of business is to get the front of the bike lifted off of the ground.

The bike will need to be supported in such a way that puts no load on the front suspension. If you ride a fully-faired bike like the Ducati in this example, you will need to remove most of the bodywork forward of the gas tank. With the body work out of the way, the next step is to remove the front wheel. This is a great opportunity to check out those wheel bearings and front brake pads and replace them if necessary. Removing the forks at this point is fairly straightforward.

There are two clamping plates that secure the forks to the bike; these are known as triple trees. Loosen the clamp bolts for both fork legs and then slide the forks out the bottom. It may take a little wiggling to get them to budge but they will come out.

With the forks off of the bike and sat on the bench, take some time to admire their beautiful craftsmanship.

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Observe the precisely machined surfaces and brightly colored anodized finishes. Now, understand how easy it is to completely screw all of that up if you were to drop one. From here on, take your time and be patient. These jaws, which are made from hard rubber, will prevent marring of the aluminum fork tube and allow for a secure grip. The first step in the disassembly is to remove the preload adjuster. The next step is to remove the fork cap, which is the only piece preventing all of the fork oil from pouring out on the floor.

BSA Fork Parts

Make sure the fork leg is vertical during this. Again, wrap the flats of the nut in electrical tape to prevent scratching the anodized surface of the cap. When the cap is unscrewed, it is time to compress the fork spring.

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Run a metal rod through the bottom of the fork leg where the axle passes throughand then use two ratchet straps to compress the internal fork spring. With the spring compressed, unscrew the fork cap from the damper rod. These may be a little hard to break loose from one another.I have found that these forks tend to suit my frames very well,along also the Faber Framed "Otters" The Mike Mills frames that were specified for Mike's complete concept, and doing a lot of the later work on these forks while at BSA Umberslade Development Centre Mike knew how the forks worked.

Other frames fitted with these forks were the Sammy Miller "Otter" frames too. We have now decided to see if we can improve these fork even more so. Race Tech Emulators will be on the way. Early Fourstud Forks. The Hex shaped portion at the top of the rod must be removed and discarded. It un-screws from the main rod. The piston assembly should then be tightened and Loctited back onto the rod.

At a minimum, install a new o-ring as every one we've seen is worn out. There is typically a slot rather than compression holes at the base of these damping rods.

Note that Fork Spring length is critical on these models!

rebuilding bsa front forks

Stock springs cannot be used, Race Tech springs are a must! Check your stock spring length for comparison. RT springs are mm long. Room must be allowed for mm combined height of the Emulator and Adapter. More Details Alternate style found on Triumph and BSA cc street as well as Scrambler models mid to late s.

Thus the modification are basically the same as Type early models. At a minimum install a new o-ring. There are slots on each side of the rod, 1 upper and one lower rather than compression holes at the base of these damping rods. Race Tech springs are mm long. Clearance must be allowed for mm combined height of the Emulator and Adapter. The returning oil on the upward stroke, in most cases returns through a s washer valve of some-sort the oil removes this from its seat and the oil is allowed to bleed usually through holes in the piston that is part of this valve.

The down side of these damper tube forks are that there is no real adjustment to the system. You can change the viscosity of the oil usedto soften or harden the ride.

So what does fitting emulators do. Simply the holes that controlled your compression damping are done away with? Unfortunately your rebound damping is down to what grade of oil you use or if you are clever to what adjustment you can make to the original damping valve or washer. I hope this has helped a bit into your understanding of how these so fitted now work.

Later I will try and take photos when I fit a pair of these valves, to a pair of the four-stud forks. Stuart testing his newly valved "Four-stud" forks in the wonderful Isle-Of-Man.

The pair of forks in the picture have had the legs reversed in the yokes, to put the brake anchor mountings onto the left leg to be able to fit a Yamaha Ty front brake and wheel!You look down at your front forks and there it is On most bikes it's really not that hard to fix, but before we start there are some things to consider. There are three things that just should not be seen in public. Front Fork Tubes, Rear Chains and my knees.

The first two because of dirt and the last one because of ugly. We won't dwell on the last two, but we will consider those tubes. In the old days when we really did " Live to ride, Ride to live " We didn't bother putting stupid sayings on our points covers, but we did put covers on our fork tubes. They were called Fork Gators or Fork Boots and they kept the dirt out of fork seals and flying rocks from dinging our fork tubes. Now, no one seems to ride much but we got to look trick. So Fork Gaters which worked so well in the past aren't put on anymore.

The point is this. If your fork tubes are dinged and rough they will wear out any new fork seals we put in.

The cure is new fork tubes. If the forks look OK, and you ride a lot, it might be a good idea to put on some gators.

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Now on to the repair. While there can be a fair number of moving parts lurking inside a fork, they seem to have a very long life Barring accident damage, seals are what go out first.

To replace a seal you must first drain the fork fluid, if possible, and then remove the front wheel, fender, fork brace if there is oneand, if the brakes are hydralic, the brake calipers. Take a wire or rope or the like and tie the caliper s up so it they are not hanging from the brake line. Loosen the fork pinch bolts on the top and bottom of the Steering Stem or Triple Tree. On some makes there is no top pinch bolt.To make life fun, Oli rebuilt his T forks at the Bristol show!

At least one special tool will come in handy, and so will a certain amount of upper body strength. To hold everything together during this job, do one fork leg at a time. This makes life easier and will stop the headlight falling out of position. First, drain the fork legs of old oil into drip trays by undoing the two drain screws at the base of the leg.

Doing this the day before is a good idea. If you compress the forks a little with the screws out, it will squirt some of the oil out too. Now put the machine on the centre stand, putting a block of wood underneath the stand to lift the front wheel a little higher. Remove the front wheel by unbolting the four nuts on the fork end caps and the bottom mudguard stay. Mark the two caps to be sure you fit each one back on its correct side. To make life easier, while everything is still under tension, try to loosen the damper rod Allen screws that are at the bottom of the forks.

If you do this with the mudguard still in place it will make life a lot easier. Undo the two nuts under the top yoke holding in the p-clamps out of the anti-vibration mounts and pull them out. Unbolt the mudguard and remove it. Remove the caliper while leaving the hose connected. Use a piece of wire or bent welding rod to suspend the caliper from the frame and reduce strain on the hose.

Read more and view more images in the May issue of CBG — on sale now! Skip to content Facebook Instagram. This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Accept Read More. Necessary Always Enabled.I did not author this article - merely ensured it will never be removed from the internet - it is so well written.

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Original can be found here. Prise out the two chrome-plated top nut caps and put them to one side. For this job,I did not find it necessary to disturb the two shafts stanchionsso leave the large chrome nut well alone. Then, using a suitable socket I used one I'd ground downspecially as there's not clearance undo the top nuts and remove them. The spring assembly should now just fall away from the top and hang, held in place by the oil seal collars.

Separate the spring assembly from the shafts Before you can separate the spring assemblies from the shafts, it's necessary to undo the two screwed collars containing the oil seals.

Delboy's Garage, 'How-To' Re-align motorcycle forks the easy way.

Mine undid fairly easily, although three hands are better than two! However, if all else fails, it may be necessary to remove the stanchions as well by undoing the two large top nuts and bottom yolk pinch bolts It may also be necessary to help break the seal in the yolk by tapping the large top nuts before removing them altogether small hammer though!

Dismantle spring assembly After draining the oil out of the tubes, grasp the springs and rotate anti-clockwise to undo the restrictor rods from the inside of the tubes. It will be necessary to hold the spring assembly securely in a vice, as you will need to unscrew the spring anchorage from the top end and the restrictor rod from the bottom end of the spring. Both of these components can prove quite stubborn to undo and a degree of force will be required!

I found my mole wrench came in handy, although I had to get them started using a suitable drift and tapping gently with a small hammer! Please note: the new springs do not come with the anchorage or restrictor rods attached! Row 1: two mudguard clip nuts and bolts; one brake cam lever bolt; two top nut caps.

Row 2: restrictor rod; spring anchorage; top nut. Row 3: restrictor rod; spring anchorage; top nut. Row 4: two sliding tube end caps; four bolts.

Row 5: sliding tube,RH, with mudguard clip. Row 6: sliding tube,LH, with mudguard clip. We use cookies on our website. Some of them are essential for the operation of the site, while others help us to improve this site and the user experience tracking cookies.

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rebuilding bsa front forks

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